The call of the valley
गर फिरदौस बर रुए ज़मीं अस्त, हमीं अस्तो, हमीं अस्तो, हमीं अस्त...
#kashmirvalley #Kashmir # #kashmirdiaries #Kokernag #Daksum
If there is a paradise on earth, it is here, it is here, it is here...These were the words by Jahangir, the Mughal emperor of Hindustan.
Kashmir, a land of breathtaking beauty, was immortalized in the words of Mughal Emperor Jahangir, whose affection for this region became legendary. His reign may be remembered for justice, but it was his deep love for Kashmir and the intoxicating allure of wine that held him captive. So enchanted was he by its beauty that governance often took a backseat to his time spent in this paradise, leaving the empire under the de facto rule of Nur Jahan. For centuries, Kashmir has rightfully earned its place as the crown jewel of India, renowned for its unrivaled splendor.
My first encounter with this heaven on earth was in 1975, when I was a ninth-grade student. As a curious young girl, my impressions of Kashmir were simple, yet profound. The most captivating feature for me was its 'kingdom of flowers,' a serene, vibrant display of nature's grace. Back then, Kashmir had not yet been touched by conflict; it was still a peaceful, idyllic land. My attention was drawn to a picturesque bungalow featured in the film Bobby, and a shikara ride on the tranquil Dal Lake was an unforgettable experience. These were the innocent dreams of a young mind, dreams that were fulfilled. But sadly, within a few short years, this paradise began to unravel and transform into something far more tragic.
My next visit came during the turbulent times of militancy, when terror gripped the region. Bomb blasts, killings, and chaos reigned, and I witnessed the volatile elections of 1996.
This trip was unlike any before. There was no time or desire to admire the flowers or the lush valleys of Pahalgam. Instead, I spent my days and nights with soldiers stationed at various camps and bunkers along the Line of Control, surrounded by an atmosphere of constant tension and vigilance.
Then came a third phase of my relationship with Kashmir, this time after I retired from journalism. This visit was purely for personal pleasure, with no other agenda. It was during this trip that I truly saw Kashmir for what it was — a land of unmatched beauty. After years of conflict, seeing the sun cast its golden light over snow-capped peaks felt like a profound and intoxicating experience. As I left, I knew in my heart that if possible, I would return to Kashmir every year.
As life often shows, not all wishes come true. But if you desire something sincerely enough, nature has a way of aligning circumstances. There's no doubt about that.
Once again, I found myself planning another trip to Kashmir, this time with the sole purpose of visiting its famous tulip garden. It was March, and though many areas were still blanketed in snow, I was determined to see the tulips in full bloom. My hope of visiting the Gurez Valley had to be postponed due to the heavy snow.
This trip, unlike the previous ones, was more of a typical tourist experience. I revisited familiar places like Srinagar, Gulmarg, and Pahalgam, with new additions like Doodhpathri and, of course, the tulip garden. If traveling all the way to Amsterdam for tulips seems daunting, visiting Srinagar is a delightful alternative. After this March trip, I was already planning to return in September.
Why? Because Kashmir has a way of reinventing itself with every season. It’s as if designers Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla are constantly crafting new ensembles for a royal figure. In March, Kashmir is draped in pure, white snow; in August and September, it dons a green mantle adorned with colorful jewels; and in November, it is cloaked in saffron hues. Who wouldn't want to visit such a vibrant land?
Maheshbhai Shah was organizing the next trip, and as soon as I heard it included the Gurez Valley, I knew I couldn’t miss it. However, there was one concern: the trip was going to last 17 days.
Seventeen days? How could someone who grows homesick in just a week endure such a long journey?
Still, Maheshbhai's itinerary was so fascinating that I resolved to push forward. Do or die, I was going — victory awaited me.
And yes, the next chapter of this victory tale will unfold in the next issue...
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