A Golden welcome to Srinagar : Journey begins

The Indigo flight from Mumbai to Srinagar was on time, landing us in Srinagar at 9:15 AM. From the skies, Srinagar appeared warm and welcoming, bathed in golden sunlight. The crisp, clear brown sky served as a prelude to what awaited us.

Before heading to the airport, I had checked the weather forecast, which predicted light to heavy rain over the next four days. Prepared for the fickle weather, I carried a jacket and poncho in my bag. The weather in Kashmir is notoriously unpredictable.Despite the forecast, the morning seemed deceptively clear, but experience had taught me that in Kashmir, a sudden gust of wind can summon clouds, bringing rain within minutes.

What makes Kashmir special is not just its beauty, but its ever-changing, pleasant weather.

 After breakfast, we embarked on our journey to Daksum, 80 kilometers away, where we would stay for two days. Though the forecast warned of rain, the sun seemed to follow us from Mumbai. As we traveled, the warm rays gradually gave way to cooler winds. Driving through Anantnag district, we were surrounded by towering forests and vibrant blooms. Apple orchards lined the roads — August and September being peak apple season. Each tree was heavily laden with the fruit, a symbol of the region's agricultural prosperity. But apples were not the only thing thriving here; coniferous forests stretched as far as the eye could see, dominated by pine, cedar, chinar, oak, mulberry, walnut, and almond trees. A unique fragrance wafted through the air, likely from the towering pine trees.

Our first stop, Daksum, appeared out of the dense forests, nestled in serene isolation. The only sign of civilization was a small hotel beside the road, its modest comfort enhanced by the surrounding beauty. By now, clouds had begun to gather overhead. We enjoyed a quick meal, and despite the looming weather, we decided to visit the nearby Kokernag Botanical Garden. 

We set off an hour later, and as if nature had aligned with our plans, the clouds parted, revealing a freshly cleansed sky. The gentle breeze that followed seemed to breathe new life into the trees. Kokernag Botanical Garden, once known as Gulshan-e-Kokernag, is spread over 1.5 acres and is a haven for nature lovers, home to a variety of flora and fauna, including colorful butterflies. Established in 1964, the park is also mentioned in the Ain-e-Akbari, and its geo-thermal springs are renowned for their curative properties. The garden's vibrant display of flowers includes Kashmiri Begonia, cockscomb, and an array of roses in hues of orange, maroon, purple, and more.

What fascinated me the most was the garden’s spring. According to historical accounts, the spring’s water was once believed to cure stomach ailments. Peering into the water, we spotted fish swimming gracefully. We later learned that these were trout, a species introduced by a foreigner, which has since become a culinary and tourist attraction.

Contrary to popular belief, Kashmir’s economy is not entirely dependent on tourism, which contributes just 8% to the region’s GDP — a fact that surprised me until I confirmed it through a quick Google search.

As for local cuisine, we were not keen to try the artificially colored sweets and oversized puris resembling bhaturas.  Chefs, who accompanied us, ensured we were well-fed with our preferred vegetarian dishes, leaving us with little desire for culinary experiments.

Our next adventure would take us to Margan Top and Warwan Valley. With strong winds and possible drizzle expected at the top, my jacket and poncho would certainly come in handy. For now, we rested, knowing that another early morning awaited us.

To be continued...